Vintage 2023 was a low yielding vintage which resulted in some stunning grapes and hence quality wine. In particular Cabernet Sauvignon exhibited the best typicity of varietal manifestation. The 52 year old vines consistently yield well year on year out.
The growing conditions until December were cold and wet and due to the negative Indian dipole and La Niña effects finishing in December 2022 we had an unprecedented dry spell from December until the end of harvest.
Small berry size particularly in white grape varieties produced beautifully balanced wines; Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Chardonnay, Cabernet and Malbec all outstanding.
Just when I thought I'd seen the best of Cullen's cabernets from the 2023 vintage, up pops this quite remarkable expression of power, finesse, elegance and concentration that is so Margaret River, so Wilyabrup, and so Cullen cabernet. It's a structured wine with typically firm-though-controlled tannins, plenty of supremely balanced oak infusion, and fruit concentration of unfathomable depth. The aromas are highly perfumed violets, blackcurrant and even a subtle cherry character. The palate is a deep concentration of black fruits. It's a blend of 70 per cent cabernet and 30 per cent malbec, which were co-fermented, and then matured in French barriques, 33 per cent of which was new, for 18 months.
Score 99/100 - Ray Jordan
In the MOSH Pit is the Moon Opposite Saturn Harvest. Which was in early March of 2023. Old plantings from the estate conspire here. This is 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Malbec. Such an impressive wine. The pixelated, mineral-charged tannins shaping things into a compact, inwardly juicy yet lithe pulse of dark berry and plummy fruits, woody and woodsy spices, salt bush, panforte and flinty, slate like mineral characters that linger in flickers through the finish. There’s a sense of energy here, a shimmering vibrancy of texture and flavour set in a trim, architectural, dart-like frame. Exceptional persistence too, and a sense of refreshment alongside. The restraint, oh the restraint. Rain down the superlatives.
97 Points – Mike Bennie