Jancis Mary Robinson OBE, ComMA, MW, once said Margaret River was as close to paradise as she had come, and it was a great honour to welcome her back to Wilyabrup – albeit virtually – to accept the 2023 Cullen Award for Excellence.

Arguably the greatest wine writer in the world, Jancis has made an outstanding contribution to West Australian wine, championing true sustainability and women in wine with great ethics and integrity.

Guests gathered in black tie and beautiful evening wear on Saturday 3rd June for the biennial award dinner and Diana Madeline’s 100th year. We also celebrated the release of the 2021 Diana Madeline which coincided with 50-year planting of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cullen’s first vines. It was a joyous occasion as guests came from around Australia, free to travel again, and while we would have loved to have Jancis Robinson join us in person, it was a delight to see her accept the honours via video from her London home.

The award recognises an individual, company or organisation that has contributed to the promotion of the Western Australian Wine Industry under the individual banners of Quality, Integrity or Sustainability. As one of the world’s most respected wine writers, and a wonderful advocate for sustainability, Jancis Robinson perfectly embodies the spirit of the award.

This award is named in honour of Dr Kevin John and Diana Madeline Cullen who held an unwavering belief in the potential of Margaret River to produce world class wines. 2023 would have been Diana’s 100th birthday. She was a strong and accomplished woman who was passionate about women in wine, gender equality, and sustainability. So, it seems fitting that this award should be received by another strong and respected woman in wine, flying the flag for sustainability.

Jancis Robinson discovered the sensual pleasure of fine food and wine at Oxford, where she read Maths and Philosophy. After a year in Provence surrounded by vineyards and people who also loved knew the joy of eating and drinking, Jancis returned to London determined to find a job in either food or wine.

Wine it was, and her wine writing career began as Editor for British trade magazine Wine & Spirit. Jancis won the Wine & Spirit Education Trust Rouyer-Guillet cup as top Diploma student, wrote and presented on the world’s first TV series on wine and authored many wine publications. In 1984 she was the first person outside trade to pass the demanding Master of Wine exams. A prolific author, Jancis has published wine books, guides and television series, including the esteemed Oxford Companion to Wine.

Made Officer of the Order of the British Empire (OBE) by Her Majesty the Queen in 2003, Jancis joined the Royal Household Wine Committee advising on the Queen’s cellar the following year. Jancis launched her website jancisrobinson.com in 2000, providing completely independent news, views and opinion on wine, food and travel. Decades later and Jancis still loves and lives for wine, shining a light on beautifully balanced wines and championing sustainability in the industry. With scrupulous objectivity, Jancis was named the most respected wine critic and journalist in the world, by Decanter magazine.

Jancis shines a light on environmental, economic and socially sustainable practices with her summer writing competition, attracting articles from wine writers around the world. She explores biodynamic ecosystems and minimal-waste vineyards, noting bottle weights in her reviews. Jancis asks us to think about sustainability with a more holistic view; beyond transitioning to organic or biodynamic practices or energy use in the vineyard and cellar. About the carbon dioxide given off by fermentations, minimising water use, the emissions relating to heavy glass bottles and the fact that vineyard labour is often itinerant and poorly paid.

Jancis has championed women in wine, not only sponsoring the Australian Women in Wine Awards Owner/Operator category, but also shining a light on some of our talented West Australian colleagues.

Vanya Cullen paid tribute to Jancis in an emotional speech, sharing her overwhelming gratitude for Jancis’ thoughtful journalism and the absolute honour of having her accept the award. Vanya recalled fond memories of Jancis’ most recent visit to Cullen and her great support of the winemakers leading the way in sustainability. She reflected on Diana Madeline’s and Kevin John Cullen’s legacy, and her gratitude for everyone who has been part of the Cullen Wine story.

2021 winner John Jens delivered the award speech, acknowledging Jancis’ commitment to promoting West Australian and Margaret River wine, praising the unwavering integrity that makes her such a respected wine communicator.

Hosted elegantly and effortlessly by MC, Cassandra Charlick, it was a night of shared memories and entertainment as guests enjoyed canapès on arrival with the new 2022 Grace Madeline. Blueridge marron starred in the entrée, which was served with the new release 2022 Kevin John Chardonnay. Arkady lamb shoulder was served with the 2021 Diana Madeline. Guests then enjoyed a generous range of cheeses served alongside magnums of 2019 Diana Madeline. It was an expertly crafted menu exquisitely presented from the hardworking Cullen kitchen led by Executive Chef Ben Day. The evening was rounded out with chocolate petit fours and a taste of the new release 2020 Vanya. It was a wine lover’s delight.

Guests on the evening included Libby Mettam MLA, Hon. Nola Marino MP, Greg Wall chair of Margaret River Wine Industry Association, Amanda Whiteland CEO Margaret River Wine Industry Association, Sharna Kearney CEO Margaret River Busselton Tourism Association, Emmanuel Loucas President of WA Wine Press Club, Cullen Wines Chair Rod Baxter, and Independent board member Tony Taylor, Cullen family members Kate, Rick and Digby, wine industry colleagues and friends. Guests were spoilt with past recipients in attendance; The Horgan Family of Leeuwin Estate and John Jens with absent recipients respectfully acknowledged: James Halliday AO and Dr John Gladstones AO.

We count ourselves lucky to be celebrating the Cullen Award for Excellence, and 50 years of Cullen Wines, while so many friends around the world are in lockdown. The evening was a wonderful celebration with John Jens announced as winner of the annual award.

Saturday June 5th saw a crowd of over 100 guests turn out in their black tie and evening wear at Cullen Wines to celebrate this year’s Award dinner and presentation. Vanya Cullen spoke of the gratitude she has for the people who have followed the Cullen Wines journey. Liam Bartlett did a sterling job as MC of the event.

The highlight of the evening was the announcement of this year’s recipient, John Jens, who accepted the honour to a standing ovation and gave an entertaining and theatrical speech. His brothers Damian, Neil and Paul Jens congratulated John via video link up, as their travel plans from Melbourne were dashed due to Covid-19 travel restrictions.

John Henry Jens has long nurtured a love of fine wine; he had collected 180 bottles of Penfolds Grange by the tender age of 24, along with 60 dozen other premium reds. Born in Victoria, John attended Xavier College Melbourne, studied Commerce Arts at Santa Clara University California and later attended Roseworthy College, then Australia’s only wine educational institute. He moved to Perth in 1977 and started his first wine wholesale operation in 1981 to represent the area’s most prominent names including Ashbrook Estate, Pierro, Moss Wood and Cullen, as well as the east’s Peter Lehmann, Yellowglen and Petaluma.

John set up and managed liquor stores under the John Jens Fine Wine banner, and in 1990 was a founding partner in Devil’s Lair Wines. Since 2007 John has worked during the day in wine importing and retailing and at night as a sommelier for his wife Kate Lamont in the Lamonts restaurants and retail outlets. John is a regular wine industry speaker and for 25 years was the wine writer for the Western Suburbs Weekly.

Simone Furlong delivered the award speech on behalf of previous winners, Leeuwin Estate’s Horgan family. She acknowledged John Jens’ steadfast commitment to Margaret River wine and praised the warmth and charisma that make him such an engaging spokesperson.

Wine writer Erin Larkin spoke of John’s great enthusiasm in a personal speech, detailing his generosity and mentorship as they work together promoting Western Australian wines.

Guests on the evening included Libby Mettam MLA, Hon. Nola Marino MP, Greg Wall chair of Margaret River Wine Industry Association, Amanda Whiteland CEO Margaret River Wine Industry Association, Steve Harrison CEO Margaret River Augusta Busselton Tourism Association, Emmanuel Loucas president of WA Wine Press Club, John’s sons Andrew and Jack and their partners, Cullen Wines chair Rod Baxter, and Independent board member Tony Taylor, Cullen family members Shel, Rick and Digby, wine industry colleagues and friends.

It was a night of shared memories and entertainment as guests enjoyed canapes on arrival with the new 2018 Grace Madeline and music by local chanteuse Cassandra Charlick. Winter vegetables grown onsite starred in the entrée ‘Garden on a Plate’ which was served with 2013 Cullen Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc Semillon, poured from magnums. Abrolhos Island scallops seared to absolute perfection with pumpkin, daikon and bush lime complemented the 2019 Kevin John, and a main of Arkady lamb shoulder was served with the 2019 Diana Madeline. Guests then enjoyed a generous range of cheeses served alongside magnums of 2015 Diana Madeline. It was a wine lover’s delight. The evening was rounded out with chocolate truffles and a sublime honeycomb mousse, another triumph from the hardworking Cullen kitchen led by Executive Chef Antoine Deunff.

In the days following the awards, journalists attended a three-day tasting of over 150 wines dating back to 1977 to commemorate Cullen Wines’ 50th anniversary. Vanya Cullen presented eight brackets of wines, showcasing the very best of the biodynamic, carbon positive vineyards. She spoke of the 50 years of sustainable wine growing preceded by 65,000 years of Wadandi sustainable land care, and the biodynamic experiments in the Legacy wines which flow on to improve the Diana Madeline and Kevin John.

It has been an extraordinary weekend of celebrations, not only acknowledging the wonderful work of John Jens, but the gratitude felt for everyone involved in Cullen’s journey.